Evolv
JTree
AAC
BadBolts
AMGA

New Henna, New Projects

5 weeks into training, the weather cleared for a couple days, and we were able to get on real rock to get some marker data. We needed to see how training is coming along and see if projects are still on plan to be within reach.

My personal goal was to rock climb again. Hitting the ground at 40’ freefall did some damage to my body, and my mind. My body is responding unbelievably well, and now to also start incorporating some training of my head.

At the start of the year, I asked Rachel Goldman of Bella Henna to design something over/around the scar on my arm from the surgery. It was beautiful, see it here and it really helped give me a new look at the upcoming year, training, climbing, and life.

Once the original faded, as henna does, my arm felt bare and I wanted more arm sheilds. Asking her to design another, I was blown away with the results.

Rachel Working on new henna exterior armpiece Rachel Working on new henna exterior armpiece

After finding a few elusive no hands rests on a friends project (13c), I deceided to not only give it a run, but then get on one of the best routes in the Red, UltraPerm 13d.

This, of course, was rather silly, given its 2 letter grades harder than anything I have ever redpointed. But with another Evolv Athlete in tow, the young/strong Dru Mack, and his beta, I was eager to see how the early stages of training was going. I climbed the bottom, then worked the crux. Eventually I was able to do the crux sequence all the way to the slightly better holds, where I was (expectedly) spit off. But the seeds were planted.

Gearing Up for UltraPerm Gearing Up for UltraPerm 13d

The next day, I gave Kaleidoscope 13c, a real attempt. Making it to the crux sequence and nearly latching the sidepull jug, I fell with a smile on my face. I fell knowing that it may be within reach this spring season. And only 5 months after nearly dying from a fall.


Finished Piece Finished Piece